Hedges · 21 October 2026 · 5 min read

Planting Bare-Root Hedging: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you are thinking about a new hedge, bare-root plants are the most economical way to do it. They are sold without soil or pots during the dormant season, typically from about November to March, and can be a fraction of the price of container plants, which is why hedging farms and garden centres sell them in bundles of 10, 25 or more. They also establish well when planted properly.

What "bare root" means

Bare-root plants are lifted from the field when dormant, with their roots exposed. Because there is no compost around the roots, they must not dry out or freeze. Plant them as soon as possible after delivery. That is the main discipline of this method, and the whole job is organised around it.

When to buy and plant

The planting season runs roughly from when the leaves have fallen in November through to March. Suppliers start dispatching around the end of October or beginning of November, so now is a good time to choose and order, and prepare the ground. Aim to plant:

On days when the soil is not frozen or waterlogged.
Sooner rather than later in the season, so the roots can settle before spring growth.

If you cannot plant within a day or two of arrival, keep the plants somewhere cool and sheltered, bags unopened and roots covered with damp material. If you must wait longer, "heel them in" by digging a trench in a sheltered spot, laying the plants in, and covering the roots with soil. Do not leave them in a hot garage or in the sun.

Choosing species

Choose a hedge to suit the site and the job you want it to do.

Native mixed hedge: Hawthorn, blackthorn, field maple, hazel, dog rose, guelder rose, holly and others make a dense, wildlife-friendly boundary with flowers, berries and nuts. Common in the countryside and suitable in exposed places.
Beech and hornbeam: These deciduous hedges hold on to their brown leaves through winter, which gives some privacy. Hornbeam copes better with heavy, wet soil than beech does.
Hawthorn or blackthorn: Dense and thorny, so a good barrier that works for security and stock-proofing.
Evergreens such as privet, yew and holly: Year-round cover. Note that yew is poisonous to livestock and people if eaten.

Avoid planting fast-growing leylandii-type conifers as a quick screen unless you are prepared to keep them cut to height. They quickly become a problem for neighbours, and the law on high hedges (see our post on hedge trimming) can apply.

On a windy, exposed or coastal site, use tough natives such as hawthorn, blackthorn, field maple, hazel and sea buckthorn in the right places, and consider a temporary windbreak while they establish.

Spacing

For a single row of whips, plant roughly 3 to 5 plants per metre depending on the species and how quickly you want a dense hedge. A double staggered row, with plants about 30 to 40 cm between rows, uses more plants per metre but gives a thicker hedge sooner. Check what the supplier recommends for your chosen mix.

Preparing the ground

Mark the line with a string and mark out a strip about 60 cm wide.
Clear the weeds and grass in that strip. Perennial weeds are much harder to remove once the hedge is in, so spend time on this stage. See controlling weeds in autumn.
Dig over the soil to a spade's depth, breaking up any compaction, and removing stones and roots. On heavy clay, improve drainage by adding some grit or planting on a slight ridge.
Avoid adding lots of fertiliser or rich compost to the planting hole, which can discourage roots from spreading. A little well-rotted compost, or just good ordinary soil, is enough.

Planting step by step

Soak the roots in a bucket of water for an hour or so before planting, but not for days. Keep any unplanted plants covered.
Dig a trench or individual holes wide and deep enough to spread the roots without bending them.
Position each plant so the soil mark on the stem, which shows the original planting depth, is at ground level. Do not plant too deep or too shallow.
Backfill with soil, working it between the roots, and firm gently with your heel to remove air pockets. Do not stamp heavily if the ground is wet.
Space them evenly along the line, checking distances as you go.
Water in well if the soil is dry. In most of the UK winter, rain does the job.
Cut back whips if advised for the species. Many hedging plants such as hawthorn and field maple benefit from being cut back by about a third at planting, which encourages bushy growth from the base. Follow your supplier's guidance for each species.

Protection and mulching

Mulch a strip along the hedge with 5 to 7 cm of compost, bark or leaf mould, and keep it a few centimetres clear of the stems. It suppresses weeds, keeps the roots moist and protects against frost. A biodegradable mulch mat is another option.
Guards: Rabbits, hares and deer eat whips, so fit spiral guards or fence the hedge if they are about.
Support: Whips at hedging size generally do not need stakes, but you might use a few canes to mark the line so you do not mow into them.

Aftercare, the part that matters

Water during dry spells in the first spring and summer. Newly planted hedges can die from drought even if they were well planted.
Weed around the base regularly for the first couple of years.
Firm plants again after frosts, because freezing can lift roots.
Prune in the first few winters to build a dense base. Cut the sides and top back moderately each winter, to encourage branching. Do not let it go leggy then trim hard later.

Expect a mixed native hedge to take around three to five years to form a good screen, depending on species and site conditions. Patience is part of the deal.

Common mistakes

Letting the roots dry out before planting.
Planting in frozen or waterlogged ground.
Leaving weeds and grass around the base.
Forgetting to water in the first summer.
Choosing a species that does not suit the soil or exposure.

Getting it right the first time

A hedge is a long-term feature, so a few hours of good preparation in autumn pays back for decades. If there is an old fence line you are replacing, compare it with the alternative in choosing a fence and setting posts, and consider combining the two for a quick screen with a hedge growing alongside.